It was jam-making time again chez nous recently, which meant that we finally used up our stock of foraged and frozen damsons. This tub of fruit has been waiting patiently for inspiration to strike me for at least a year. In the end, the reason the damsons eventually found their way into a jam jar was less to do with inspiration and more to do with a need for a large Tupperware box long out of circulation. From such mundane considerations are culinary delights created (well that’s getting somewhat carried away I suppose, but you can see what I mean). What has started out as a purely practical exercise, has re-stocked our jam supplies with some quite more-ish fruit preserve. Still remaining to be used are some of last autumn’s foraged blackberries, but I will come to those soon I hope, as we are almost out of our supply of blackberry and apple jelly .
I originally planned to make the damson cheese from our Thane Prince Jams and Chutneys book. However, as I didn’t have the required 2kg of damsons available, but did have some Bramleys in the house, we ended up with a damson and apple cheese. I have thus borrowed from two recipes in Thane Prince’s book, as I have adapted elements from both the ‘Damson cheese’ and the ‘Apple butter’ recipes. If you remember, we have made preserves from her book previously, including our own variation of her apple butter using apples donated by a neighbour. This batch of preserves is noteworthy as it the first time that I had proper use out of my large new preserving pan, bought last year in Aldi. Part of me wishes I had chosen a smaller size, as you need to boil a large quantity of fruit to get good use out of the pot. Anyway, I suppose it should in future mean that fruit does not hang around in the freezer for a year, as I can now boil up an enormous batch should I so desire.
The damsons were quite small so I didn’t attempt to halve them and I peeled and chopped the apples (total of 2kg fruit) and put them with a litre of water to bring to the boil. I did find that the water took a longer time than I was expecting to reach boiling point, but I suppose that was because I was not used to the pan. Prince’s original recipe uses fresh ginger at this stage, to add zing to the fruit, but as I did not have any available (I think that happened last time I tried to make damson cheese) I resorted to the spice cupboard. When at the next stage of putting the fruit pulp and sugar (1.5kg) in together I added a quarter of a teaspoon of ground cinnamon to add a hint of spice. Next time, I really will make sure to have a piece of fresh ginger handy, as I would like to try it for flavour.
In this type of recipe, the hard work comes in at the stage of pushing the softened fruit through a sieve to create a fruit puree. I think that maybe I need a larger sieve to make the task a little easier as it is an arm aching process at the best of times. Then, when you get to the stage of being ready to test the mixture for a set, the recipe instruction says, ‘scoop out a spoonful, put it on a cold plate, and allow it to cool. It should stay in a mound rather than spread out over the plate’. Now, I had cooked the mixture for the suggested 30-45 minutes, resulting in a thickening of the fruit mixture but it was nowhere near as thick as to stay in a mound. Having said all of that, my test amount passed the appropriate wrinkle test, so I potted up the jam (cheese) into hot jars. I am not sure what I am doing wrong as my batches are never as thick as they are supposed to be. I am concerned that if I cook longer to achieve a greater thickness, that I will then spoil the flavour.